Dive into the world of myth and creativity with the Medusa Cardigan—a mesmerizing free crochet pattern that’s perfect for makers from advanced beginners to expert level! This size-inclusive design features a striking snake applique crafted using the tapestry crochet technique, adding a bold and unique touch to your wardrobe. Made with cozy worsted-weight yarn, it is a surprisingly quick make and the Medusa Cardigan is as comfortable as it is stylish, making it a standout addition to your handmade collection. Whether you're a seasoned crocheter or just beginning your crochet journey, this pattern will inspire you to weave a little mythology into your stitches.

Thank you so much in supporting my art! You can sell items made from this design in small batches but you must credit Ashly at The Weaving Witch as the designer. You may not mass produce this design. You may not sell or share this pattern. You may not alter or modify this design and claim it to be your own. Also, if you share photos on Social Media of your creations please credit and tag me. Use hashtag #TheWeavingWitch

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Supplies

Yarn: You’re going to need approx. 700-1000 yards of worsted weight #4 Yarn for your Main Colour and 50 yards for your Accent Colour.

I used some really nice Paintbox Cotton Yarn in colours Dusty Lilac and Granite Grey. You can find it using my affiliate link here:

https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-us/p/paintbox-yarns-cotton-aran?utm_medium=affiliate&a_aid=8e8bc84a

5.5 mm and the hook decided after making your guage

Tapestry Needle for sewing in ends.

Scissors

Sizing

This top is completely size inclusive with many options for customization throughout. You will need to feel comfortable measuring your own body for this pattern.

Gauge

Your gauge is explained in the “To Begin” section.

Key (Us Terms)

Ch - Chain

St (s) – stitch or stitches

MC – Main Colour Single Crochet

AC – Accent Colour Single Crochet

Sc– Single Crochet

Hdc – Half Double Crochet

Inc – Increase, 2 Sts in the indicated St

Dec – Decrease Stitch

SlSt – Slip Stitch

Sk – Skip

← - Right Side (RS)

→ - Wrong Side (WS)

How to change colours

I used a mixture of tapestry and bobbin-like crochet method and carried my yarn when doing the moons. I cut and tied after each moon and snake and sewed in my ends afterwards. You will have a very noticeable Right and Wrong side with these projects.

There are TONS of resources on YouTube if you look up Tapestry Crochet or Crochet with Bobbins, you can learn these techniques via video. If you decide to carry your yarn the entire way, your cardigan may be slightly larger, so keep that in mind!

This project uses Hdc instead of regular Sc

Here is an example below

← Row 10: (MC) x 3, (AC) x 1, (MC) x 8, (AC) x 1, (MC) x 3

This row is worked on the right side.

**Don’t forget to pull the sts tight **

So, you’ll start out by doing 2 Hdc as usual, and you’re going to start your 3rd, but you must close it with your accent colour (AC),

and because there is only 1 Hdc with the AC, you’ll close it with your MC.

Now, as I work the next Sts, I am going to carry my work behind (on the WS) my Sts.

And exactly like with the first 2 colour changes, you’ll do 7 Hdc as usual, and close your 8th St with your AC, and because there is only 1 Hdc with the AC, you’ll close it with your MC.

Finish the last 3 Sts as usual and without carrying .

Now lets demonstrate how to do the wrong side.

→ Row 11: (MC) x 3, (AC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (AC) x 2, (MC) x 3

Now, this row is worked very similarly, however, you will want to carry your yarn on the side facing you.

So, you’ll start out by doing 2 Hdc as usual, and you’re going to start your 3rd, but you must close it with your accent colour (AC), when you do this, you must pull your working yarn towards you.

This time we have 2 Hdc in the AC, so you will do 1 normal, and you’ll close the second one with your MC.

Now, you’ll want to make sure your AC is working on the front edge for the next few sts as you carry it. You’ll be doing 5 sts normally, and closing your 6th St with your AC.

Again, this time we have 2 Hdc in the AC, so you will do 1 normal, and you’ll close the second one with your MC.

And finish your last 3 Hdc without carrying your yarn.

Hopefully this info was helpful to you and will make your project easier!

Other Notes

· You’ll be working in rows and turning after each row.

· Your turning ch will NOT be considered a stitch unless otherwise indicated in the pattern.

· The method I used was a mixture of inertia and bobbin crochet. Please see section “How to change colours” above.

· If you carry your yarn the entire way, you may end up with a slightly bigger garment, so keep that in mind.

Medusa Cardigan Chart

Each block = 1 Hdc
This is worked in short rows from the bottom working up. There is also a written section for the chart below

To Begin

To start this pattern we need to decide how long you want the cardigan to be. To do this, you’re going to want to make a swatch of 10 Hdc across and 10 rows high. Now, measure the height (rows) and times that by 5. That will be the length. If you want it to be longer, you can add more Hdc rows before and after the chart. If you want it to be shorter, go down a hook size.

Once you are finished with the chart, you may move along to the written instructions named Body

The Chart - Written Pattern

To Begin

To start this pattern we need to decide how long you want the cardigan to be. To do this, you’re going to want to make a swatch of 10 Hdc across and 10 rows high. Now, measure the height (rows) and times that by 5. That will be the length. If you want it to be longer, you can add more Hdc rows before and after the chart. If you want it to be shorter, go down a hook size.

The Chart - Written

You will Ch 1 before each row and turn after each row.

MC: Main Colour
AC: Accent Colour

Ch 16

→ Row 1: (MC) x 15

← Row 2: (MC) x 15

→ Row 3: (MC) x 15

← Row 4: (MC) x 4, (AC) x 1, (MC) x 5, (AC) x 1, (MC) x 4

→ Row 5: (MC) x 4, (AC) x 2, (MC) x 3, (AC) x 2, (MC) x 4

← Row 6: (MC) x 4, (AC) x 7, (MC) x 4

→ Row 7: (MC) x 5, (AC) x 5, (MC) x 5

← Row 8: (MC) x 6, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 6

→ Row 9: (MC) x 15

← Row 10: (MC) x 6, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 6

→ Row 11: (MC) x 5, (AC) x 5, (MC) x 5

← Row 12: (MC) x 5, (AC) x 5, (MC) x 5

→ Row 13: (MC) x 5, (AC) x 5, (MC) x 5

← Row 14: (MC) x 6, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 6

→ Row 15: (MC) x 5, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 7

← Row 16: (MC) x 8, (AC) x 4, (MC) x 3

→ Row 17: (MC) x 2, (AC) x 4, (MC) x 9

← Row 18: (MC) x 3, (AC) x 4, (MC) x 4, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 1

→ Row 19: (MC) x 1, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 2, (AC) x 7, (MC) x 2

← Row 20: (MC) x 1, (AC) x 9, (MC) x 1, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 1

→ Row 21: (MC) x 1, (AC) x 7, (MC) x 3, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 1

← Row 22: (MC) x 1, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 4, (AC) x 5, (MC) x 2

→ Row 23: (MC) x 11, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 1

← Row 24: (MC) x 1, (AC) x 7, (MC) x 7

→ Row 25: (MC) x 3, (AC) x 10, (MC) x 2

← Row 26: (MC) x 6, (AC) x 7, (MC) x 2

→ Row 27: (MC) x 2, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 10

← Row 28: (MC) x 7, (AC) x 6, (MC) x 2

→ Row 29: (MC) x 4, (AC) x 7, (MC) x 4

← Row 30: (MC) x 3, (AC) x 5, (MC) x 7

→ Row 31: (MC) x 9, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 3

← Row 32: (MC) x 4, (AC) x 4, (MC) x 7

→ Row 33: (MC) x 4, (AC) x 6, (MC) x 5

← Row 34: (MC) x 7, (AC) x 5, (MC) x 3

→ Row 35: (MC) x 2, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 10

← Row 36: (MC) x 11, (AC) x 2, (MC) x 2

→ Row 37: (MC) x 2, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 10

← Row 38: (MC) x 10, (AC) x 2, (MC) x 3

→ Row 39: (MC) x 3, (AC) x 2, (MC) x 10

← Row 40: (MC) x 9, (AC) x 2, (MC) x 4

→ Row 41: (MC) x 5, (AC) x 1, (MC) x 9

← Row 42: (MC) x 9, (AC) x 1, (MC) x 5

→ Row 43: (MC) x 15

← Row 44: (MC) x 6, (AC) x 3, (MC) x 6

→ Row 45: (MC) x 5, (AC) x 5, (MC) x 5

← Row 46: (MC) x 4, (AC) x 7, (MC) x 4

→ Row 47: (MC) x 4, (AC) x 2, (MC) x 3, (AC) x 2, (MC) x 4

← Row 48: (MC) x 4, (AC) x 1, (MC) x 5, (AC) x 1, (MC) x 4

→ Row 49: (MC) x 15

← Row 50: (MC) x 15

→ Row 51: (MC) x 15

Do not Fasten off and move to the next section

Body

Turn your work to go along the rows.

Row 1: Ch 1, Hdc up the side of your chart and keep count until you reach the end. Now, make a Ch with that exact same amount of sts as you did Hdc, turn

Row 2: Sk the first Ch, Hdc into each Ch, than Hdc into each St toward the beginning of the last Row, Turn

You should have an odd number of Hdc

Row 3: Ch 1, Hdc into first St * Ch 1, Sk 1, Hdc into the next, rep from * until end of row, turn

Row 4: Ch 1, Hdc into each St and Ch across, turn

Row 5 and 6: Ch 1, Hdc into each St across, turn

Repeat Rows 3-6 until you’ve reached your desired width.

Fasten and re-attach to the other side. Repeat all on the other side.

Seaming

The reason why I didn’t leave a long tail for sewing is because I liked having about 15 sts untouched on the bottom creating a slit. But this is entirely up to you.

Cut a long strand of you MC colour and whip stitch along the WS of your work your last Row from the previous section leaving a gap for your arms and a gap for some slits. Repeat on the other side.